Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Spectacular

Wave buoys showed 10.8 feet on a SW and W wind. An adventure was underway to find some good waves. I went to a new spot and found 10 foot plus shore pound. The force and energy of the waves could be felt 100 feet away. The ground shook from the impact and I could feel pound in my chest. below is a photo of the shore pound.



I surfed for about an hour and a half at the down the beach at the pump house. The waves coming in were chest/shoulder high and jacked up nice and steep. After my session I went to the west end of the beach past the pumphouse and got some photos and video of the waves. I have surfed there before on a large day such as today. the waves wrap around the point and produce some nice and perfectly smooth waves to ride. Though the waves are small, about waist high at the most, the wave breaks with a peel and are glassy clean.









I then ventured to another beach to see what kind of waves were coming in. I found a wave that had extremely long rights and lefts. the wave has to be at least 7 to 8 feet for it to work, but when it does it looks like some nice long rides. below are some more shore pound photos.


















1 comment:

Eric said...

Wicked great colour in those first two photo's, was this just the other day on the heavy west or what? Haven't seen you in a couple months. I am long over due for some surf. talk to you soon.
peace
e