I brought my son out to go surfing for the first time on his new board. The winds were in the 30 knot range and the waves were coming from the southwest. A quick trip to the camp and a squeeze into the wetsuits had us ready to start a new beginning. To me, the waves were small nearly unridable. But a little change of persepective and I soon realized that they were very intimidating to a person that is just over four feet high. we paddled (I pushed him out while he was lying on his board) out into the larger surf. He caught a few, spilled on a few and it was a good introduction to his new passion (I hope). As I watched him lie on his board and ride the waves I noticed that the waves were chest to head high on him. I do have to give him credit, it was pouring rain, the sky was grey and the lake looked very menacing.
I soon started to think, what is a Grom? A young person starting out in surfing? If we think about this a little further we can agree that we are all groms. As we enter the surfing world we look out at those that are better and faster. Those that ride the larger and faster waves. We think to ourselves that one day that will be me. As we grow and our skills get honed, we look forward to larger faster waves. Always looking up to someone, in a magazine or a friend that rips. As we advance and ride those waves we start looking at surf trips. Try different surf spots different continents. All the while advancing and pushing our skills to the limit. Accepting a challenge no matter what. It shows us that in the bigger picture we are all learning, we are all in our own way groms, regardless of age and regadless of skills.
Watching my son enforced the paralells of surfing and life. When he took a wave over the back of his head, I reminded him to never turn his back on the waves. There will always be a bigger wave and when you least expect it the outside set will come crashing through. Always face what is coming at you and maybe one day you will catch that outside set and have the ride of your life. Just remember to keep looking forward and there will always be a new challenge.
Monday, August 3, 2009
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